The Chemistry of Essential Oils:
An Introduction for Aromatherapists, Beauticians, Retailers and Students
2nd edition

by David G. Williams

December 2008; 189 x 246 mm, 7.5" x 10"; 408 pages; hardback; £37.00 ISBN: 978-1870228-31-2

The first edition of this work, published in 1996, became an instant classic because it was the first textbook of its kind to bring to the reader an introduction to the subject from first principles. It was addressed primarily to practitioners and students of aromatherapy, who are, again, the main intended audience. However, it should also appeal to beauticians wishing to extend their knowledge into the fragrance area of cosmetic science, to retailers of essential oils and perfumes and to cosmetic scientists wanting to learn more about the chemistry involved.

The first two chapters, Some Basic Chemistry and Hydrocarbons aim to pave the way to an understanding of the simple structures forming the backbones of the molecules of constituents of essential oils. In Chapter 3, Functional Groups Containing Oxygen, Nitrogen and Sulphur, the main chemical types of constituents of essential oils are discussed.

Chapter 4, Essential Oils and Carrier Oils, is concerned mainly with the geographical and botanical sources of essential oils, their preparation for the market, their properties, and their safety. The subject of Chapter 5 is explained by the title, The Odour Properties of Essential Oils, and gives many profiles of wellknown essential oils, of essential oils, in terms of their "top" and "body" notes and "dryout".

The standard physicochemical and instrumental quality evaluation tests applied to essential oils are explained in Chapter 6, Quality Control of Essential Oils. Although every chapter has been revised, this chapter has been dramatically changed -- a total of 49 chromatograms of essential oils are provided, with many component ingredients identified. The chromatograms are mainly presented in pairs, so that the effect of using a different column can be seen. The chromatograms are preceded by an explanation of what is involved in gas-liquid chromatography and how the ingredients are measured.

Chapter 7, Isolated and Synthetic Fragrance Materials begins with a little history and goes on to a discussion of some of the latest research into the composition of the scents of living flowers. Chapter 8, Perfumery -- The Fragrant Art, is devoted to perfumery and includes suggestions for simple fragrance experiments with essential oils.

The subject of Chapter 9 is explained by it's title: Personal Fragrances. Many famous perfumes are listed, along with their date of introduction, thier fragrance notes and their type. The final chapter, Burning the Midnight Oil is intended to help students to learn what they will need to know of the subject in order to approach their examinations with confidence.

A glossary lists over 400 technical terms associated with essential oils and an extensive index completes the book.

"This revised 398-page book is something I would highly recommend to any students of aromatherapy, or others, wanting to understand the chemistry surrounding the use of essential oils.

This revised edition now includes many GLC charts on each different essential oil. These charts are very useful for people to see the differences between the same named oil for different geographical locations, and how that may or may not affect their olfactory and other properties.

The book taken as a whole, corrects a lot of the innaccurate information found in the popular aromatherapy type books, where the author has a weak knowledge of essentials oils trade. This author, on the other hand, has a lifetime's experience in the trades he writes about.

The extensive section on "burning the midnight oil" is vital reading for anyone involved in studying. The glossary is extensive, turing the book into an extensive quick reference resource."

Martin Watt -- December 2008, www.aromamedical.com

Some comments on the first edition:

"This is by far the best book on essential oil chemistry to come along in ages. The chapter on quality control deserves special mention - on the same pages as chromatograms of specific essential oils are coloured scratch and sniff patches. A superb way to make a difficult subject interesting and inter-active. This book could easily become the chemistry module in an aromatherapy course."
Aromatherapy Today September 1997

"This book is beautifully written. Many find the subject of chemistry either dull or terrifying and, in my opinion, this book will dispel such preconceptions. This book will certainly become a standard text in aromatherapy training programmes. I can recommend it highly."
Jennifer Peace Mackie, Aromatherapy World, Spring 1997

"This is an excellent book. It is thoughtfully presented, clear and concise and accurate and it could well become an important resource on the more scientifically oriented aromatherapy courses. I would wholeheartedly recommend it as a reference to anyone with an interest in the scientific aspects of essential oils, as the book is resolutely scientific and immensely informative."
Tony Balacs, Int. Journal of Aromatherapy, Vol. 8, No. 2 1997

"...an informative, well-researched text book that sets out to introduce the complex subject of essential oils from the basics."
Health and Beauty Salon, Feb. 1997 (Book of the Month)

"The section on perfumery gives a clear overview of how essential oils, and the isolates and synthetics derived from them, are blended together to give complex fragrances."
Charles Sell, Chemistry in Britain, April 1997

"...this book sets out to introduce the subject from first principles, and does so clearly and well. The book finishes with a first rate Glossary of well over four hundred technical terms..."
Aromatherapy Quaterly, Spring 1997

"At long last, a textbook providing a foundation of knowledge in the composition and the physicochemical properties of essential oils. This book is a must for all serious students."
Sylla Sheppard Hangar, NORA Newsletter, 1997

We have a small quantity of the 1st edition of this book which we are selling for only £5.00 plus postage (our normal rules about postage do not apply to this, and postage is at cost). This gives you the "scratch and sniff" labels which are absent from the second edition. Futhermore, if you have bought this edition for £5.00 you may buy the second edition for £5.00 less, ie a total of £32.00 (plus postage as usual, based on £37.00).

Perfumes of Yesterday

by David G. Williams

2004; 160 x 240 mm, 6.5" x 9.5"; 400 pages; hardback; £22.50
ISBN: 978-1870228-27-5(UK) or 978-9608752-9-0 (USA)

This book is about the perfumes which were commonly made and sold in the perfumeries and chemists’ shops in Britain over a period of some two hundred years from about the beginning of the eighteenth century, soon after Jean-Antoine Farina moved from Italy to settle in the German city of Cologne, which gave its name to the most popular toilet water of all time.

So begins Perfumes of Yesterday, which provides a fascinating account of the development of perfumery, as it progressed mainly from the seventeenth to the twentieth centuries. It focuses particularly on the Victorian and Edwardian eras in Britain, but also follows the parallel development of perfumery in other countries in Europe.

The book’s purpose is to provide a study of the old and mostly simple examples of the perfumer’s art in order to gain some insight into the ancestry, and therefore a better understanding, of the more complex fragrances of today, themselves already the progenitors of the perfumes of tomorrow. The historical approach of the first part of the book gives context to its main section  – formularies of perfumes and toilet waters that have been gathered from published articles and books dating from or before the 1920s and which relate mostly to perfumes of much earlier origin, some from as far back as the eighteenth century, when chemistry had yet to become an exact science and the possibility of its application to perfumery quite beyond imagination. One recipe for an Eau de Cologne dates from 1700.

Following each formula is a discussion of various aspects of the perfume:  its composition; the geographical and botanical sources of its ingredients and the method of extraction of their essential oils; its odour properties and the fragrance effects resulting from its particular combination of ingredients – and, here, an analysis of the composition of some of the apparently simple perfumes reveals a staggering complexity of major, minor and trace components. The discussion may also cover  the historical context of a perfume’s use; the history behind its name; and the counterparts of its ingredients in modern perfumery.

The book concludes with a discourse on the perfumes of today and tomorrow. The main sections are followed by five appendices, a glossary of some technical terms, a reading list and an index.

While the book is intended primarily for the professional perfumer and students of perfumery, it is hoped that the variety of information and the insights that it provides, not only in relation to perfumery production methods and ingredient sources, but also to the social history of perfumery and the psychology of perfume, will be of interest to the more general reader.

“Perfumes of Yesterday is an excellent review of the history of perfumery from a master of the subject who has taught and inspired many of those who work in the industry today...This treasure trove of a book will prove a valuable source of information and inspiration for those in the fragrance industry and could have wider appeal as a record of social and technological history.”
Charles Sell, Chemistry World, January 2005

“Having now read this very fine book, which I commend to all students of perfumery and also their master perfumer mentors and tutors, and indeed to the many lovers of good books about the fascinating subject of perfumery history, I consider that the book is a ‘must have’ and should be sought from the publisher without delay.”
John Bailey Founder, The Perfumers Guild Ltd

“The introduction and the chronicle of the 18th-20th centuries provide a... 75-page tour de force of the transition from art-and-craft tradition to science and technology...those seriously interested in perfumery will find a unique collection of what appear to be quite carefully prepared formulations for perfumes and toilet waters drawn from history... With surprisingly useful appendixes and indexes... Summing up: Highly recommended.”
L.W. Fine, Columbia University Choice: Current Reviews for Academic Libraries, April 2005

Introduction to Perfumery, 2nd edition

by Tony Curtis and David G. Williams

2001; 180 x 240 mm, 7" x 9.5"; 800 pages; hardback; £42.00
ISBN: 978-1870228-24-4 (UK) or 978-0-9608752-8-3 (USA)

First published in 1994, this book has become the standard reference work for perfumery students throughout the world. Intended as a first-year text, the book assumes no prior knowledge of perfumery. The authors provide integrated coverage of topics from raw materials to supermarket shelves, from science to creation, and through to marketing and business policy.

The power of fragrances to communicate is strongly emphasized and an explicit framework of odour vocabulary provided. Detailed discussion is included of the new product development process and the central role of the perfume brief. For this edition, all chapters have been revised, some considerably, and the book will be of great value to any writer or researcher wishing to consider any issues relating to fragranced products.

Tony Curtis, Principal Lecturer in Business Policy and International Business, Plymouth Business School, Plymouth University, has many years of experience in the aroma trades industry in research, development, production, application, creative perfumery, evaluations and marketing. He lectures on international business with special emphasis on the aroma trades.

David Williams is a consultant and author of books on essential oils. He has taught and developed the teaching of perfume technology in both further and higher education, in industry and by distance learning.

“This will be a very useful tool for those looking for a comprehensive text on the business of perfumery.”
Felix Buccelato, Perfumer & Flavorist, May 2002
 
"This book gives a good overview of the perfumery industry and the materials and techniques used in the creation and manufacture of perfumes. The book is good for those interested in an academic style of training and a must read for those thinking of starting their own business in the field of perfumery. It explains the basic chemistry considerations of aroma chemicals in an easy to read and understand way and is good for those without a chemistry background."
From a review of the 1st edition, published on the web site of Perfumers World

Aroma Science

by Salvatore P. Gimelli

2001; 180 x 240 mm, 7" x 9.5"; 250 pages; hardback; £10.00 (but £20.00 for calculating postage)
ISBN: 978-1870228-25-1 (UK) or 978-09608752-7-6 (USA)

This book is an expanded version of the lecture notes and handouts compiled by the author and presented to students taking a course involving aroma chemistry as part of a Master's degree programme in cosmetics science at Fairleigh Dickinson University, New Jersey, United States. It is intended to teach the science involved in the study of aroma materials and their effect on society. Examples and problems are provided and explained, and practice problems with answers are available for study and review.

The book is divided into four main sections. The first section deals with odour sensations, the correlation of odours and molecular structures and the properties, sources and uses of natural aroma materials. Part 2 covers synthetic aroma products - the sources, properties, uses and syntheses of such aroma compounds as aromatics, heterocyclics, aliphatics, alicyclics and terpenes. Part 3 deals with aroma analytical methods and describes the procedures used for the evaluation and identification of aroma compounds. The final section concerns aroma applications and describes the creation of perfumes, the application of fragrances in cosmetic formulations, and the aging and stability of aroma compounds and their use as therapeutic agents.

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